![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPNB80UbKPgG6jauGmNAC_dVCGbJDk1ZJtgVIlkKWVn8nGEMJ0yhnSPkZII10AaLw-jWjFL5-VMkGVan5Fp4LtVEKw3achPrUdCdxtz7dGQhEQ4maUzvm-8gUXD08sgO0qBxKsEQ/s320/First+Spindle+Sock+Almost+Done.jpg)
Janet in Houston asked me what gauge I get with Inox US 0 (2.0mm) and Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock. Short answer is 9 stitches per inch. Long answer, which my knitting Group is all too familiar with, is that everyone knits differently and you have to swatch it to find out. I'm never sure how much information people want or need when it comes to sock sizing, but I'll give you the general overview of how I size my socks.
First, I figure my gauge (stitches per inch). Sometimes I swatch to find this, but I've also been keeping a list of socks yarns I've knit with in the past and what gauge I got on certain needles - no need to swatch! The most important thing to remember here is that you can't let a pattern or someone else dictate what needle size to use. Those are just suggestions. You have to be happy with the fabric. For example, Lorna's does not look good to me on US 1's. It just doesn't. I get around 8 stitches per inch on US 1's and that just doesn't look as good to me as 9 stitches per inch which I get with US 0's. Someone else might like it, or they might get 9 stitches per inch on US 1's. We all knit differently. That's what keeps things interesting. :)
Secondly, I measure around the widest part of my foot. This is pretty self-explanatory. Just measure snugly around the wide part right above your toes.
Thirdly, multiply your gauge and your foot circumference to figure out what number to cast on (or what number to increase to if you are doing toe-up). For example, in my case with Lorna's on 0's, that would be:
9 stitches per inch x 9 inches around my foot = 81.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3PJHyQnce6TGgxD4ipth9LmjufvxufkQIUR0_cTh9AwanLKI0w9pyD-NF-Yd1zCSCWD3ErkBzbN9sABOXbhnsvTIB1yKlPjYXlrvLwunPxavbp83xbcwkQE7OnmaOcafS9KxprA/s320/Spindle+Close-up.jpg)
Finally, sometimes it's good to be negative. Ok, that's dorky, but it is true. In some stitch patterns you want some negative ease. Negative ease, the way I think about it, is when the fabric hugs the foot rather than fitting perfectly around the foot. If I knit a plain stockinette sock, I usually knit with about 10% negative ease. So, if my gauge x circumference number was 81, I would probably cast on 72.
81 x 10% = 8
81 - 8 = 73, but I like even numbers, so 72.
With ribbing patterns I usually just find a good number somewhere between the gauge x circumference number and the negative ease number. Whatever works well with the pattern repeat. It makes life much easier (and balanced) if you make sure your pattern repeat divides evenly into your total stitch count.
Ok, so that was the long answer! Hope I wasn't too pedantic and I didn't confuse or bore anyone. That was just a glimpse into my knitting thought process. :)
Thermal is being neglected. I think I'll make this weekend Thermal-only knitting. I'd like to finish it before our Oregon visit in mid-April. That may be overly ambitious if I'm continually distracted with sock knitting...